BLOCKING

Blocking is a process of wetting, steaming or pressing to shape a knitted garment before or after assembling. It is mainly for the purpose of shaping and sizing the garment, it also helps to even out stitches, improve the drape of a garment and also helps it go together easier when you are piecing, such as a sweater.

Just about any type of yarn can benefit from blocking, even if it is just wetting pinning into the desired shape or measurements and letting it air dry. The exception is some novelty yarns such as Lurex, and others that are eyelash or highly textured.

The stockinette stitch is greatly improved by blocking. Never steam block ribbing that you want to remain elastic, it will there after always remain stretched out, with the exception of the ribbing on a cardigan sweater, it should be blocked to help it lay flat, and keep it from pulling.

Wool will stand up to any blocking technique as long as it is not steamed so much that the stitches won’t bounce back.

Acrylic is better blocked with a damp towel. Steam will take the life out of the stitches, and if you use an iron and the iron touches the garment, it will smash the knitting and it will never go back to its original state.

Damp towel method

Cottons block best with the damp towel method. Lay the pieces of the garment out, with a damp towel on top of them. (Do not saturate the towel) wet it slightly with a spray bottle. Let the garment sit in this fashion for a couple of hours, then your garment should be damp enough to shape, or pin the edges. Smooth with your hand, and leave to dry. Be sure that the side seams on the front and back of the garment are pinned or shaped at the same length. This is a good method for any fiber you would like to block except the Lurex, or novelties stated above. This is a good method for textured knits as it won’t smash, or flatten cables and other textured patterns.

Steam Blocking

This method is good for most natural fibers; take care of Rayon, or viscose. don’t use this method on synthetics. Always check your yarn label if possible.

Lay your pieces flat. Hold a warm/hot iron about ½” away from the garment or pieces, and allow the steam to permeate the fabric. Flatten slightly with your palms, and pinch up 3-D textured patterns. Allow to dry.

Always take care when steam blocking, do not overly steam your garment as it can kill” the fabric, (cause it to be limp and lifeless.) even wool can be damaged if steamed too much.

Cool Mist Blocking

This method is best for fine yarns such as angora, cashmere, or alpaca, as it won’t lose its character. It is also good for linens, cottons, silks, and natural, synthetic blends. It minimizes the danger of shrinkage because you have total control of the dampness, no pressure is applied, so there is no danger of felting. This method is also great for textured knits, such as cables and moss stitch patterns. The raised textures can be made to rise even further.

Using rust proof pins, pin the pieces into the desired shape or measurements that the pattern calls for. Start with the corners, pinning as you go. Remember don’t pin your ribbing. Spray with a cool spray mist until garment or pieces are wet. Pat the pieces so that the water will saturate the fiber, and then allow to air dry completely before removing.

Wet Blocking

Wet blocking involves immersing the fabric in enough water to cover the garment, squeeze out excess water (DO NOT WRING). Supporting the garment (don’t let it hang) it will stretch. Then put the fabric in the washer on SPIN CYCLE ONLY, this will get all of the excess water out of the knitted fabric without felting, or adding any water. Lay the garment on a flat surface, shape, measure and pin if desired and allow it to dry completely.

This method is also good for textured knits as it also doesn’t smash or flatten the texture. and some are of the opinion that this is the best way to block just about everything, as it will prevent possibly damaging your fabric.

For Lace knitting it is best to use Zonta wires to dress the lace knitted garment. It is quick and easy. Weave the wire through the edges of the garment or item to be blocked. Place a couple of pins to hold the position of the wires, check your measure- mints, and let it dry completely before removing.

For stranded knits, such as faire isle it is best to completely wet, and then stretched on A woolly board, an adjustable frame that holds the sweater tight until it is dry, to even out the tension in the strands. And even out the surface.

Ribbon can be pressed, using a damp cloth between the iron and the knitted ribbon.

Sources: The knitter’s book of finishing techniques pages 134&135 by; Nance M, Wiseman, Vogue knitting, The Ultimate Book of Knitting. pages 93-97 The Knitters Handbook by; Montse Stanley pages 228-232. Designing Knitwear page 230 by; Deborah Newton online at: windycityknittingguild.com by Joy Davis Knitting in Plain English by; Maggie Righetti pages 177-183